HISTORY ALONG THE WAY
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This setion of the website provides a general
outline of the history surrounding this part of Scotland. In
particular it details some of the key times and events surrounding Rob
Roy MacGregor, perhaps the most notorious inhabitant of this region.
A fuller listing of the
Monarchs of Scotland
may help in placing the following history in context.
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Rob Roy MacGregor 1671 - 1734
- 1570 Gregor Roy, chief of the MacGregors executed by the Campbells
at Taymouth, then know as Balloch Castle.
- 1603 Alasdair MacGregor fought against the Colquohouns and this
led to his ultimate hanging in 1604 and the proscribing of the
MacGregor clan name.
- 1671 Birth of Rob Roy MacGregor.
- 1689 Battle of Killicrankie.
- 1693 Rob Roy married to Mary MacGregor of Comer (cousin).
- 1707 Union of Scottish and English Parliaments.
- 1712 Rob Roy declared bankrupt by Duke of Montrose.
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Rob Roy MacGregor |
- 1713 Rob Roy moves to Auchinsallen in Glen Dochart till it was
destroyed following the 1715-16 uprising.
- 1713 Rob Roy sheltered in Finlarig Castle by Campbell, Earl of
Breadelbane.
- 1715 Rob Roy captured 22 government guns in
Callander.
- 1715 Jacobite uprising. Battle of Sheriffmuir and raid on Falkland
Palace by Rob Roy.
- 1717 Rob Roy captured at Balquhidder but escapes on way to
Stirling, while crossing the Forth, recaptured in Dunkeld and
imprisoned in Logierait, then again escaped.
- 1720 Rob Roy moved to Balquhidder.
- 1725 Rob Roy submits to George I via General Wade.
- 1730 Conversion to Catholicism at Drummond Castle.
- 1734 Rob Roy died in Balquhidder.
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Rob Roy was the third Son of Donald Glas MacGregor of Glengyle
(A direct descendent of the Glenorchy branch) and Margaret Campbell.
Donald Glas was a chief of the Clan.
The family was involved on the land and as cattle dealers, but in
addition Donald Glas was a Jacobite, a supporter of JamesVII and the
Stewart line.
The MacGregors were also subject to their name being proscribed on
several occasions, this effectively banning MacGregors from using their
surname or entering into any legal contracts. This proscription was
first established following the killing of the Colquohouns by the
MacGregors in Glen Fruin in 1603. King James VI then proclaimed the
MacGregor name "altogidder" (abolished). The second time the name was
proscribed was in 1689 by William of Orange as a result of the
MacGregors part in the Jacobite uprisings.
Against this background it was difficult for Rob Roy in the earlier
years to establish a stable land base from which to conduct his cattle
droving and trading.
Rob Roy fought with his father at the Battle of
Killicrankie
however following this period Donald Glas was captured and imprisoned
for several years in Edinburgh. Rob Roy and his oldest brother Iain
developed the Lennox Watch, a body of men that would offer protection
to cattle owners in return for "blackmail". This protection was
effective but where monies were not paid or where there were enemy
clans there was regular cattle reiving. By 1701 Iain had died, then
Donald Glas died in 1702 and Rob Roy became the effective Chief of the
MacGregor Clan.
In the following years to 1712 Rob Roy's reputation was growing
with the other clan chiefs and cattle traders and he was working in
droving and cattle dealing with the
Campbells of Breadelbane and
then the Marquis of Montrose. So much was he doing that the Marquis
lent him £1000 to expand his activities, this being stolen by one of Rob Roy's trusted men,
Duncan MacDonald. As he could not repay the loan, Rob Roy was declared
bankrupt, failed to respond to a summons and declared an outlaw in
1713.
Rob Roy got shelter from the Campbell's of Breadelbane at Finlarig,
then fought in the Battle of Sheriffmuir in 1715, and subsequently
accused of treason. All the time Rob Roy was a fugitive on the run and
lost most of his earlier properties.
The Duke of Montrose and the Duke of Atholl were them both active
in trying to capture Rob Roy. First the Duke of Montrose captured him
in Balquhidder but he made his famous River Forth escape as he was taken to
Stirling castle in 1717. He was then recaptured by the Duke of Atholl
in Dunkeld as a result of a trick, imprisoned in
Logierait but again
escaped.
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With the support of the Duke of Argyll Rob Roy remained free and in
1724 with the help of the Duke, the death of the Duke of Atholl and a
reconciliation with Montrose Rob Roy's days as an outlaw came to
an end. He submitted a letter of submission to King George I through
General Wade in 1725 this effectively resolving all the issues and
allowing Rob Roy to live in relative peace till his death in 1734
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Rob Roy's Grave at Balquhidder Kirk - alongside the graves of his
wife and two of his sons |
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There is an opportunity to learn more about Rob Roy and the whole Clan
Gregor by accessing the
Clan's website
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Pass of Killiecrankie - Battle of Killiecrankie |
River Garry just south of the site of the Battle of
Killiecrankie |
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The Pass of Killiecrankie is a tree lined gorge on
the River Garry where the battle was fought on 27 July 1689.
The Jacobites were lead by Viscount Dundee - John Graham of Claverhouse
with the support of Donald Glas, Rob Roy's father and Rob Roy, then a
young supporter of the Jacobite cause. General Hugh MacKay who was
moving north from Stirling to recapture Blair Castle led the government
troops.
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The Government forces had 4000 men, horses and some small
cannon, the Jacobites 2500 men. There were extensive losses on both
sides but the Jacobites defeated MacKay who retreated and then later
reformed with 400 men in Weem.
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The Macnab Clan |
During the 15th & 16th Century the Macnabs were powerful in the
Killin area with an island command on the small island at the
west end of Loch Tay at the point where the Rivers Dochart and Lochay
enter. The clan further south was the Neishes from Loch Earn. The
Neishes were cattle thieves and regularly stool from the Macnabs
resulting in a clan war in 1522 in the hills between Loch Tay and Loch
Earn (general area covered on
Strathyre to Killin section) of the Way. The clans threw off their plaids and fought naked until the
Neishes were almost total destroyed. Legend has it that the lichen
covered stones in the Little Port Farm area is still red in colour as
a result of the blood spilt by the Clan Neish.
1612 "Tonight is the night - if the lads were the lads!"
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Route back from Loch Earn taken by the MacNab brother |
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The Neishes ambushed the Christmas provisions for the Macnabs as
they were being transported by ponies from
Crieff to Loch Tay. Word of
this arrived with the Macnabs and four of the sons set off immediately
from Castle of Eilean Ran to the island on Loch Earn where the Neishes
lived. This involved using a rowing boat from the Castle on the island
at the mouth of the River Lochay and Dochart up to Ardeonaig, then a
walk with the boat lifted over the heads up to Lochan Breaclaich before
descending down Glen Tarken to
Loch Earn.
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The boat was them launched
into the Loch and rowed to the Neishes' island where the Neish clan was
beheaded. The Macnab brothers returned using the boat with the skulls
of the Neishes carried in a sack using the same route up Glen Tarken.
The boat was now too heavy and was abandoned. The brothers this time
made for the shores of Loch Tay and arrived back the next day to
present their spoils. The Clan Chief was anxious about the outcome but
Iain Min Macnab cried out "Dread nought" as he arrived, this now
forming the slogan on the Clan crest along with a Neish head and the
Boat.
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The route up from Ardeonaig is on the route of the walk but in the
opposite direction, and the return route by the Macnab brothers is
likely to have followed the line of the Rob Roy Way from the forest
above Killin along the side of Loch Breaclaich to the high point at
Ceann Creagach, again in the reverse direction. |
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Island home of Neishes and behind and right Glen Tarken the route
taken by the MacNabs |
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Francis Macnab - 16th Chief of the Clan 1734 - 1816 |
Francis was a colourful clan chief who liked to
retain the Clan
approach although by now most of the Chiefs had moved to a tenant
relationship with the local community. He also had a lack of
money to support his drinking reputation and it was through gambling
and charm that he survived so long. He did not leave any direct heirs
but a lot of debt, resulting in the sale of almost all the Clans land
and assets in 1828. |
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Francis Macnab
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Macnab Burial Ground of Inchbuie |
This is passed on the route that comes directly into Killin.
As you cross the bridge at the Falls of Dochart there is an entrance
to Inchbuie, a small island in the middle of the river. This is the
burial land for the Macnab Clan and it can be accessed in the holiday
season by collecting the gate key from the Tourist Information Centre.
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MacNab burial ground at the Falls of Dochart
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The Birks of Aberfeldy |
Burn's Seat on the side of the Falls of Moness |
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In 1787 the Scottish Bard, Robert Burn was reputed to be in
Aberfeldy. He was fond of the Birks and about half way up on the eastern
side there is a stone ledge know as Burn's Seat. It is thought that
while here he was inspired to pen the song "The Birks of Aberfeldy".
In addition to the Burn's connection the area is full of nature beauty
and interest.
Use the Birks of Aberfeldy
link to see a map of the Birks and to read Burn's verse. |
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16th & 17th Century Right of Way |
In Ardtalnaig at the T junction there is a sign directing walkers to
the Sma' Glen and Crieff. This is the route that forms a major part of
the section between Ardtalnaig and Amulree (92 mile option). The route is an old drove road and track used many centuries
earlier for movement up from Crieff to Loch Tay and northwards.
Just to the north of this point on the shore there was a recognised
ferry point across to the village of Lawers
This was the route taken by the Macnabs to transport Chistmas
provision to their Castle of Eilean Ran, this journey being ambushed
by the Neishes in 1612. This will also be a route that Rob Roy is
likely to have used regularly moving cattle to and from the English
markets. |
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Direction post to Crieff from Ardtalnaig |
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Ruins of Balquhidder Church |
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The Minister of Fairyland
This relates to the Rev Robert Kirk (1644 - 1692) who was Minister
at Aberfoyle and Balquhidder.
- Balquhidder Church 1664 - 1685
- Aberfoyle 1685 - 1692
In the second charge the manse was located just infront of the Doon
Hill. Robert
Kirk was known to go out in the evenings and to spend time with his
ear to the ground on Doon Hill listening to the Fairies.
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In 1685 it is reputed that he
disappeared into the mound and was pronounced dead. His coffin was
buried "without a body" and over a period of time his image was
reported as returning and being seen in Aberfoyle.
During his time he wrote "The Secret Commonwealth of Elves, Fauns
and Fairies" the original copy now being in the Edinburgh University
Library". |
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Robert Kirk's Gravestone with Doon Hill in the background |
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One of Two Mortsafe Coffins at the door of Kirkton Church |
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Mortsafes
Made of Cast Iron, these coffins were not intended for anyone to
move or to enter. This was the answer to Burke and Hare and the
problems of body snatching. What is unusual is the fact that these
precautions had to be taken so far from the main teaching hospitals.
These coffins are to be seen within direct view from the Rob
Roy Way at Kirkton Church as one enters Aberfoyle.
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The Black Watch Regiment and Memorial |
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The Monument to the Black Watch was unveiled in November 1887 by Gavin
- Marquis of Breadelbane. The original muster in 1740 was on the
opposite side of the River Tay but due to the possibilities of
flooding the monument was sited on the "nearest practicable site".
The incription reads as follows:
The "Highland Watch" (or simply "the Watch") was established
following the issue of commissions from King Charles II in 1667 for
certain clan chiefs to raise Independent Companies to be a constant
guard for securing the peace of the Highlands and 'to watch upon the
braes'.
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The Blach Watch Memorial in Aberfeldy |
The dark tartans worn by the men of these companies to distinguish
them from the "Red Soldiers" led to them becoming known as "Freicaadan
Dubh" or "The Black Watch".
These companies were disbanded in 1717 and started up again in 1725
. Starting out as the 43rd Regiment of the Line, it became the 42nd
Highland Regiment in 1749.
In 1970 the Regiment was given the freedon of the Burgh of
Aberfeldy. |
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Campbells of Breadelbane |
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The Campbells history starts in 1432 with Sir Duncan Campbell giving
his younger son Colin the lands of Glenorchy. This was the start of a
500 year rise in the influence of the Campbells as they acquired the
largest land holding in Britain, covering land from Argyll to Aberfeldy
and north to Glen Lyon and south to Amulree.
By 1676 John Campbell was granted the title of the Earl of Breadelbane
by King Charles II. He was described by a contemporary 'as cunning
as an fox, as wise as a serpent but as slippery as an eel'.
Following the 1715 Jacobite uprising the clan
system started to change and the 2nd and 3rd Earls started to look at
improving the systems of farming and introduced flax growing and
spinning of lint to the Loch Tay area. This was a time when Loch Tay
had a population of over 5000 persons.
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Taymouth Castle built by 4th Earl of Breadelbane, now empty and
surrounded by Taymouth Golf Club. |
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The 4th Earl was made the 1st Marquis and at this time the Castle at
Balloch was demolished and replaced by Taymouth Castle.
The difficulties for the Campbells started in the 1920 with
increased taxation and the lack of direct descendants. They started
to sell off land and property from them until in 1948 when the last
land was sold. The 10th Earl is still alive but with no family, living
in retirement from a job as laboratory cleaner in London. The
population on Loch Tay is now around 100
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Grandtully Castle & Pitcairn |
Grandtully Castle on the south side of the Tay
close to Pitcairn Church was built in the 16th and 17th Centuries,
although its predecessor was thought to be built around 1414. The
present castle was the seat of the Stewarts of Grandtully. The square
keep incorporates a guard room and prison pit below, perhaps much in
use in the time of the Jacobite uprisings and the Clan warfare.
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Print of Grandtully Castle - c1880 |
The castles other interest is the fact that it was thought
to be the
model for Tullyvolan in the Sir Walter Scott novel Waverley. This castle is
now in private ownership.
Pitcairn on the south bank of the Tay has the small white washed
church of St Mary. This building has a vaulted timber ceiling with
extensive 17th century Renaissance style paintings depicting scriptural
scenes and armorial panels.
Close by at Lundin is the site of a 2nd century BC burial ground which
was excavated in 1963.
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Logierait |
Logierait is at the meeting point of the Tay and Tummel Rivers. This was the site for the Royal Hunting seat of King Robert II of Scotland (1371 -1390), it was the Regality Court of the Lords of Atholl and also contained the adjoining prison, some of the stone still being visible on the grounds of the Logierait Hotel.
The Courtroom was said to be 70 feet long, and the prison must have
been substantial having accommodated 600 prisoners following the
Battle of Prestonpans in 1745. The Prison is perhaps more famous for
an earlier prisoner, Rob Roy, who managed to escape after only one
night in captivity in 1717.
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Lady of Lawers
She lived in the mid 17th Century in Lawers on the north bank of Loch
Tay opposite Ardtalnaig. She married into the cadet branch of the
Campbell's and they were relatively poor having to lease there
dwelling. She was however seen as a seer or predictor of the future and when
her first prediction came true she became much respected. The following
are a few of the predictions that affect the area around the Rob Roy
Way.
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A typical ruined croft on the Banks of Loch Tay
These ruined crofts are to be seen at frequent intervals,
reflecting two of the predictions:-
"There will be a mill on every stream, and a plough in every field,
and the two sides of Loch Tay will become a kail garden."
and later on
"The homesteads on Loch Tay will be so far apart that a cock will not
hear its neighbour crow." |
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- "The ridging stones will never be placed on the roof. (this
being of the new church at Lawers 1669) If they are, then all my words
as false." - The First Prediction
- "The tree will grow, and when it reaches the gable the church will be
split asunder, and this will also happen when the red cairn on Ben
Lawers falls."
- "When the ash tree reaches the ridge of the church the House of
Balloch will be without an heir."
- "There will be a mill on every stream, and a plough in every field,
and the two sides of Loch Tay will become a kail garden."
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- "The lands will first be sifted then riddled of its people"
- "The jaws of the sheep will drive the plough from the ground"
- "The homesteads on Loch Tay will be so far apart that a cock will not
hear its neighbour crow."
- "In time the estates of Balloch will yield only one rent, and then not
at all."
- "The lands of Macnab will be joined to those of Breadelbane when two
trees join together on Inchbuie and grow as one"
- "The last laird will pass over Glenogle with a grey pony leaving
nothing behind."
The only one prediction still to be fulfilled is:
- "The time will come when Ben Lawers will become so cold that it
will chill and waste the land around for seven miles."
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